Thing No. 1 Unless you’re an audiophile, you don’t need
separate components.
The first and most often asked question by
persons new to home audio is: Should I buy “components” or a
“system?” As much as we just like to tell you what to do here at Five
Things, this buying decision is dependent solely on your personal
tastes and situation. If your goal is quick and easy sound on a budget,
an all-in-one or pre-packaged solution is the best one.
Depending on how quick and how easy we’re talking about here, the first
path, and usually the one that most people start with, is the
all-in-one home stereo. These are characterized by little or no “hook
up” of the various pieces in the system. Easy enough.
Thing No. 2 Make sure you cover your basics.
• Tuner for AM/FM stereo broadcast with memory presets plus AM/FM antenna
• CD Player (make sure it can play MP3, CD-R and
CD-RW so whatever kind of mix your new sweetheart gives you, you can
play it.)
• Speakers with at least two drivers. This is
where that woofer/tweeter business comes in. (If you must know,
tweeter is for high frequency sounds and woofer for bass and
mid-frequency sounds. There, don’t you feel snappy now?)
Also, make sure you can detach the speaker wire from both the speakers
and the main unit so you can substitute longer wire if need be.
• Speaker wire. Enough to mount the speakers at the
right distance from the main unit and from each other. Proper
speaker placement actually makes a difference even on these small units.
• Amplifier. Many of the mini systems will advertise
high-output amplification. It’s not uncommon for a mini-system to
produce 100-300 total watts per channel. In our not-in-the-least-bit
modest opinion, this is overkill. If your mini-system produces twenty
clean and clear watts of sound, you’ll enjoy it much more than the
300-watt “mega-mini” that sounds distorted and obnoxious. As a famous
pioneer in high-end sound once said “If the first watt of power sounds
horrible, why would you want 99 more just like it?”
• Auxiliary Inputs. Your mini-system should at
least have “line-in” and “line-out” jacks at the rear of the unit.
So, you think the mini-system is beneath you do ya?
Well, okay fancy pants. The other path is the component-based (or
“separates”) stereo system. If you have specific desires or needs that
your equipment must meet (like perhaps your need to show off or to show
your face proudly at the AV club meeting) and, unlike the rest of us,
you’re not afraid of catching your hair on fire and connecting wires,
your best option is to buy a components-based system and hook it up
baby.
Check reviews at: cnet.
If you are attempting to build an entire system of the finest available
components and money is no object, then we’re guessing you don’t need
us. We’re impressed. Invite us over for a party. But, if
you’re creating a system of separates on at least a somewhat limited
budget read on.
Thing No. 3 Figure out what your budget is.
Some really nice
person here at five things has gone to the trouble of making you an excel
spreadsheet with several price points and recommended maximum
expenditures for each of the most-popular components you’ll want to
consider. Can you believe that? Obviously trying to make
the rest of us slackers look bad. Microsoft Excel budget spreadsheet.
Thing No. 4 Know what to look for (or listen for as the case
may be).
If you’re really serious about this, then get into it.
Make a project out it. (Or, you could just spend your time
watching another episode of Big Brother.) Listen to and evaluate lots
of different products. To get you started, first take a look at the
Component Guide. You’ll find in-depth information on what to look for
when evaluating and/or purchasing individual components. Then, once
you’re ready to evaluate products read the Guide on Training Your Ear.
You’ll be on your way to creating quite the snazzy home sound system.
Thing No. 5 Buy at a specialty store.
Since you’re
making this sound system a serious part of your life, then you want a
retailer with whom you have a relationship. Do the usual first
date size-up; how serious are they? Are they a fly-by-night or are they
going to stick around for a while? Get a sense of their values –
What manufacturers do they carry and why? What is their commitment to
care and what are their divorce policies? Do they have their papers?
Make sure that they are members of CEDIA (Custom Electronic Design and
Installation Association) and/or PARA (Professional Audio Retailers
Association).
Thing No. 6 Take it for a test drive.
Many audio-only
boutiques will allow you to test equipment for a limited time in your
home. This allows you to see how it will sound in the real
world. This is a big benefit of the local audio-only dealer.
Thing No. 7 Buy used.
This is a great way to build a
wicked system inexpensively. Many well-established audio-only
stores will deal in previously owned equipment. Typically, these pieces
can be had for 25-50% off of their original retail price. That means
that for the cost of a marginal-performing piece sold at a big-box
retailer, you can acquire a truly great performer.
Thing No. 8 Buy the demo (or the “blemo”).
Store demo units are
new pieces that need to be retired or represent models no longer for
sale by the manufacturer. The piece may be a “blem,” (or "b-stock")
meaning that it is scratched or otherwise not 100% visually perfect.
This visual degradation may be worth 20-30% off the retail price of the
unit. Pieces such as these often come with all documentation that was
originally shipped with the unit.
Thing No. 9 Skip the commission.
Go to stores with salaried
salespeople. They have a vested interest in selling the best
equipment to you, not the highest priced.
Thing No. 10 Put the “me” in eBay.
The world’s largest online
trading community has some wonderful deals that can get the audio
enthusiast moving forward quickly: ebay.
Thing No. 11 Shop the collector market.
Many private parties
that make their equipment available too. You can find those sales in
the classifieds sections, eBay, and other sources. In this case, make
certain that you know what you’re buying, as buying from private
sellers is always a dicier business. One of the huge challenges facing
every buyer and seller of audio equipment is interpreting the
descriptive words used by a retailer or private owner selling their
used equipment. What, for example, does new, mint, excellent, very good
condition, or good condition mean? From Audio Shopper comes this
insightful rating to understand the grading of used or demonstrator
home stereo pieces.
Thing No. 12 Check out the going rate online.
Get the same
information price info that the stores use by accessing usedprices.com . If you’re thinking this is the equivalent of the Kelly Blue
Book…aren’t you clever! These books list a new retail price,
approximate trade or cash value and a suggested used sale price for
almost every brand and model of home stereo equipment produced in the
last 25-30 years. Based on the condition, quantity available and the
desirability of a piece, the retailer will set a price for the piece
taken on trade. If you know the name of the manufacturer and the model
number for your desired piece, you can see the item’s price new, the
wholesale used price and the used retail price. It’s $3.99
for each online search.
Thing No. 13 Ask for a warranty
Go for at least 90 days, and
preferably as much as a year if it’s a newer piece. If you’ve just got
to hear how the piece sounds before you commit (which is advisable),
ask if there is an exchange/return policy for the used equipment just
in case it doesn’t work or sound right with your setup.
Then, have fun assembling an inexpensive system that's 80% or 90% as
good as the best out there. After that, forget about the system and
enjoy the beats.